What we usually call laphet (pickled tea leaves) is Myanmar’s favourite dessert. The Myanmar laphet tradition is as old as the Orient itself or may predate the lust for chocolate of the Occident.

History and literature tell us that Myanmar kings and aristocrats loved laphet and ate it with relish and grace. Kings even appointed an official to serve him with green tea and pickled tea leaves. The great poet and dramatist U Ponnya, whom we usually liken to William Shakespeare, was known to be the royal green tea officer to King Mindon, the penultimate king in our last Konbaung Dynasty. The king himself was so impressed with the poetic talents of U Ponnya that he used to chat with him over green tea and laphet.

Tea used to be grown on the Shan Hills and sprouts were plucked before the first rainfalls of the wet season. These tendrils were fresh, clean and so sacred that they were preserved for laphet. The not-so-tender leaves were dried and used for green tea.

The first tealeaves of the season were called natthitywet, or ‘fresh leaves for the gods’. In the regal days laphet made with those most tender sprouts was served to the kings and royal families, as well as to the rich and the nobility.

Laphet is usually served on tables laid for reverend monks on any religious occasion. It is also offered to other deities, such as guardian spirits of rivers, mountains, trees and fields to appease them or plead to give blessings and bounty. We also pay respect to our parents, elders and teachers by offering them the best pickled tea leaves available. And it is served in both social and religious parties as a dessert.

Now, laphet has become more widespread; highly consumed by people from all walks of life and even entering international hotels so visitors to the country can have a try. Laphet has become a snack or side dish for the average Myanmar, consumed inside and outside of the household.

Students and workers alike tend to eat laphet at restaurants, canteens and teashops. A plate of laphet combined with a bowl of rice can appease a rumbling stomach before lunch or dinner.

In laphet, pickled tea leaves are the main ingredients and fried garlic, sesame seeds and beans are added according to taste.

In Mandalay, Ayee Taung Laphet Company is a legend in the production of pickled tea leaves. Ayee means big aunt and taung is basket. The story goes that over a century ago there lived in Mandalay an old lady who sold her pickled tea leaves in town and in the palace. Ayee Taung Laphet proprietors U Kyaw Thein and Daw Kywe Kywe are descendants of Ayee Taung, the latter being her granddaughter.

The Mandalay laphet market is dominated by Ayee Taung, with its ingredients preserved and prepared in traditional methods and modern quality control techniques. Ayee Taung also has the Yangon branch where they sell both wholesale and retail. Another major player in the market is Yuzana Laphet the proprietors of which U Min Han and Daw Khin Latt Than Lwin started the business in 1978. First, they opened a laphet shop in Thein Gyi Market D-Shed, which now houses stores and Mingala Cinema, in Yangon.

As business grew another shop was opened in Nawaday Street, Yangon, making sales on a wholesale and retail basis, U Zaw Too, the manager, said to Myanmar Times. It also has a branch in Mandalay.

Yuzana Laphet is the creator of ready-to-eat, packaged laphet, sold in local markets. U Zaw Too said that the company’s unique selling point is its hnapyangyaw, (twice-fried garnish).

Yuzana Laphet has been selling pickled tea in two kinds, one sour-and-hot and another with the natural taste of tea.

Mogok Laphet is also a player, and so is Pinpyo Ywetnu, who has entered the market on recently but is gaining popularity. The former sells Laphet tendrils in glass containers and people who like the real taste of pickled tea love it.